Hoard’s cheeses rise to the challenge

You may have noticed that Wisconsin is big on cheese — yes, the foam cheesehead hats are eye catching, but don’t let them lull you into thinking we’re not serious about this stuff. Wisconsin cheeses hold their own in national and international competitions, and while our intra-state cheesemaking rivalries may be friendly, the competition is still fierce, and the ribbons are hard-won. One of the hardest-fought state contests is held annually in the city of Monroe, a.k.a. the “Cheese Capital of the U.S.A.” Here, the Green County fairgrounds host the state’s largest county fair cheese competition — this year, more than 100 entries were registered from cheesemaking hopefuls all over the state as they vied for Gouda glory, Cheddar championship, and Swiss success. Hoard’s Dairyman Farm Creamery was among the contestants, and thanks to hardworking cheese artisans and a very special Guernsey herd (the oldest and largest continually registered of its kind in the nation), took home honors for three of its cheese varieties. 

Many cheese competitions use a 100-point scoring system, which evaluates entries based on multiple criteria around flavor, texture, finish, and appearance. Each cheese has its own flavor profile and ideal qualities beyond that of taste. For instance, Cheddar should achieve harmony among nuttiness, sweetness, saltiness, and acidity, according to the American Cheese Society. That balance shouldn’t be compromised by bitterness or fruitiness, and that cheddary essence should be delivered in a firm, but not crumbly texture and consistent body. At the Green County Fair, Hoard’s Dairyman Farm Creamery’s aged Cheddar took the Open Class blue ribbon, scoring a 98.56 (if you needed any confirmation that cheese judging is a serious business, note that scores go out to the hundredths of a point). 

Hoard’s also picked up a ribbon in the Pepper-Flavored Natural Cheese category at the Green County Fair. Here, the Havarti Fuego took second place. This variation on Hoard’s Dairyman Farm Creamery’s popular Island Havarti offers a spicy kick, thanks to a carefully balanced addition of habanero and jalapeño peppers. The blend of creamy, slight tangy Havarti with the spicy peppers earned a whopping score of 99 from the judges. 

Another Hoard’s offering has caught the attention of judges this year: Belaire, the creamery’s salute to Port-Salut style cheeses, recently picked up honors at the American Cheese Society’s national contest – but it also earned recognition at home, taking fourth