Bound for black market? Cheese theft arrests expose plot

Authorities in England have arrested six men since last October as they investigate the theft of artisanal Cheddar cheese valued at more than $405,000. Staff at Neal’s Yard Dairy, an upmarket cheese seller and wholesaler, were the unwitting participants in a scam that yielded the thieves roughly 48,000 pounds of Cheddar that came from artisan suppliers throughout England and Wales. The 950 wheels were delivered to an individual who had convinced Neals Yard Dairy staff that he worked for a French retailer as a wholesale distributor. The arrests soon followed, starting with a 63-year-old man who was taken into custody on suspicion of fraud by false representation, as well as handling stolen goods. Scotland Yard’s investigation of the case went quiet for months, but in mid-August, authorities announced they’d nabbed five more men. London’s Metropolitan Police continue to build their cases against the alleged thieves.

The case is hardly one of a kind; the BBC reported that luxury and artisan cheeses have been continued targets for black market purveyors. Organized crime rings are attracted to food theft because it generally carries less risk than, say, illegal drug smuggling. Finding a market for the cheese may be easier these days: with sanctions tightened on Russia, there’s speculation that food from Western nations might appear on the black market there. But while the “Grate Cheddar Heist,” as celebrity chef Jamie Oliver dubbed it, is not a one-off crime, many of the cheeses targeted are unique. Cheddar, which originated in England, is a favorite variety for artisan cheesemakers to put their own spin on. It’s also the best-selling cheese in the United Kingdom and ranks near the top for the U.S. as well — which means you don’t need access to the black market to find a Cheddar that’s worth its weight in flavor, texture, and versatility.