Classic style: the art of Camembert

Like many foods named for their places of origin, Camembert cheese has “outgrown” its first home; today, many Camembert-style cheeses are crafted far from Normandy, France, where the variety has roots going back all the way to the 18th century. Its origin story: during the French Revolution a farmer’s wife named Marie Harel was guided in the cheesemaking process by Abbot Charles-Jean Bonvoust, a priest who was fleeing persecution. Harel took him in, and he in turn inspired her in the ways of this now-iconic cheese.

Our version, St. Saviour, is named for the place that inspires us: a rural parish on Guernsey Island that has strong connections with Normandy. And our Wisconsin dairy farm is a part of that Guernsey legacy: it’s home to the descendants of our founder’s original Guernsey herd and produces the milk for all our cheeses.

Today’s many localized versions of Camembert might stray geographically, but they all have a few things in common with the 1790s original: They are surface-ripened, with a rich, soft, and buttery interior cloaked in bright white edible rind.

Like its cousin Brie, Camembert derives much of its distinctive visual appeal and unique flavor from the cheesemaking process; the rind is the result of enzymes that develop after Penicillium candidum is applied to the surface. Those enzymes quickly ripen the cheese, which develops an almost-earthy flavor that’s reminiscent of mushrooms. You may find that Camembert’s aroma is complex and serves to heighten that distinctive taste.

The rind adds its own flavor profile: a slight tang that can put off the uninitiated — but you don’t have to eat the rind to get the idea, as the rich, nutty interior is enjoyable on its own. Either way, accompany your Camembert-style cheese with a crusty baguette, fresh fruits, or your favorite jam (find a traditional preparation method here).